Located in Takamatsu’s popular bay area about 10-minutes walk away from JR Takamatsu station, a delicious aroma wafts around Kitahama Alley.
Whenever I pass by this shop, my stomach always grumbles. A shop that specializes in quiches, a phenomena rarely seen anywhere in Japan, even its name is befitting:”206 TSU MA MU”.
As with every building along Kitahama Alley, this fashionable shop was created by renovating an old seaside storage facility. The moment you step inside, the air is filled with a savory fragrance, and before your eyes there are rows of quiches.
Rumor has it that there is even a “kamatama” quiche… (kamatama refers to hot boiled udon noodles with raw egg and soy sauce).
Before opening the quiche eatery, the manager and his wife studied cooking abroad. Without further ado, I ask the manager if there’s anything they’re particular about? “Yes, instead of using normal pie dough for the crust, we use a brisée style dough, a recipe from the Lorraine region. Non-Japanese people often say that quiches sold in Japan are not authentic. To start with, the dough is different, they say… We also use as many Kagawa-grown vegetables and other ingredients as possible.”
The eatery usually has around 20 different types of quiche on offer, and the variety is truly surprising! Some, such as the mabou doufu quiche (tofu with spicy meat sauce) and the okonomiyaki quiche, have quite the impact. As quiche has something of a feminine image, the idea of creating such flavors was to get men to eat them, too.
I asked about the mysterious “kamatama” quiche. “At the moment, the Sanuki mochibuta pork udon noodle quiche is one of our most popular.” Acting on the advice of his friend, the manager of Jun-uchi Udon Yoshiya udon noodle shop, he tried making an udon noodle quiche. Although at first it was ignored, visiting tourists ignited the fire.
If you have trouble imagining how quiche and udon noodles could possibly mix, come and give it a try. You’ll be surprised.
Can you see the noodles just laid inside the crust?
Crunchy brisée dough crust and chewy noodles, the textures and flavors are so different, but that’s what makes it so good. The seasoning is also done properly in the style of udon noodles, and although it’s a fashionable quiche, it gives you the mysterious impression that you’re enjoying the soulfood of Kagawa, i.e. udon noodles.
With the authentic flavor of the original, the most popular quiche at 206 TSU MA MU is still quiche Lorraine, which is made with Kagawa prefecture’s “Hakucho” asparagus.
By the way, while normal quiche pieces are triangular in shape, those offered here are round and big enough to be eaten with one hand. This is the reason behind the “tsumamu” in the shop’s name (‘tsumamu’ refers to holding something in one’s hand). The chef laughs and says that the numbers were used just for the way they can be also pronounced in Japanese (with tsu for 2, ma for 0 and mu for 6).
While the shop offers plenty of baked goods, the canelés and cookies are particularly popular, on display inside the cool showcase, there’s a line-up of sweet quiche pies made with brisée dough.
You can also buy quiches to take-out, and if when making a telephone reservation you say what time you’ll be coming by, they’ll prepare freshly baked ones for you to take home, which also make wonderful souvenirs.
Sanuki vegetables with Sanuki udon noodles in a Sanuki quiche made in authentic French style. If you visit Kagawa, do come by.
206 TSU MA MU
Location: 4-14 Kitahama-cho, Takamatsu city, Kagawa prefecture
Open: 10:30-> Closes when quiches sell out!
Closed: Thursdays & and on other irregular days
Setouchi Finder Photo-writers:
Text: Tomoko Kawai (Dream Network Activity)
Photographs: Takabumi Yanagisawa (Dream Network Activity)
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