Meditate on Nature’s Beauty at Zenbo Seinei

Between being a spectator and a participant in the natural beauty of Setouchi, Zenbo Seinei offers guests a unique chance to do both. This "Zen Wellness Center" on Awaji Island is a platform of peacefulness designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. Created to be integrated with the local geography, Zenbo Seinei is a place where people come to slow down, do a little meditation or yoga, and have a restful stay with minimal distractions.

While zen retreats at Buddhist temples are not uncommon in Japan, Zenbo Seinei seeks to bridge the gap for those who want a peaceful spiritual escape but do not want to subject themselves to the harsher ascetic practices of many temples. For example, rooms here are sparse but comfortable and private, offering relaxing views of the center's surroundings from floor-to-ceiling windows. Meditation sessions are held sitting on unique chairs designed to allow you to sit in the lotus position comfortably for long periods. And the Zenbo cuisine is vegan and animal-free but uses seasonings and traditional cooking methods to bring out the flavors of the ingredients.

From the kindness and attentiveness of the staff to the warmth of the natural materials used in the facility's construction, Zenbo Seinei practically screams relaxation. But not literally, of course, because screaming would not be relaxing.

Grand Hotel Nikko Awaji – Sweeping Sea Views and Amazing Architecture

Both natural and manufactured beauty surround the Grand Nikko Awaji, which is located on the northeast coast of Awaji Island facing Osaka Bay. For starters, guests on the "Precious Floors" are treated to incredible views of the ocean landscape from private balconies with outdoor seating and tables. This is Setouchi, after all, where the weather is often perfect for lounging about outside. The views are equally beautiful from inside the spacious rooms, especially in the morning when you can watch the sunrise over the bay with your favorite person (and beverage). The Grand Nikko Awaji offers a range of room types, including elegant Japanese-style rooms and suites with plenty of space to relax. The hotel brings the world of nature inside, using motifs and colors found on Awaji, the Island of Flowers.

The hotel is part of the Awaji Yumebutai complex, designed in part by world-famous architect Tadao Ando. Ando's signature sleek concrete design can be found all over the complex, but the highlight is the Hyakudan-en Garden, an Escher-esque hillside garden of terraces, staircases, and water features where beautiful flowers bloom during the majority of the year. Even if you aren't getting married, take a peek into the hotel's iconic Capella Di Mare chapel, an Ando-designed masterpiece of elegant simplicity.

Aonoya Restaurant- Where Every Seat Has a Sea View

Starting construction during the coronavirus pandemic, the architect of Aonoya Restaurant on Awaji Island addressed the issue of "social distancing" in a creative way: every seat in the restaurant faces the same direction, toward the stunning view of the Seto Inland Sea. The restaurant almost feels like a theater, with the gentle blue sea as a backdrop to the talented chefs preparing Awaji-inspired cuisine at the base of the floor-to-ceiling windows.

In fact, the only thing that may get you to tear your eyes away from the gorgeous views is the beautifully presented food itself. The Aonoya Gozen is served in the drawers of a traditional cypress box. The contents of the drawers are delicately arranged plates of small dishes made using such ingredients as Awaji beef, seafood from nearby Yura port, and locally grown vegetables. Complementing the box are separate plates of sumptuous sushi and crisp fried tempura.

Aonoya is one of a family of facilities sharing a similar location on Awaji with a view of the Seto Inland Sea, collectively known as Seikaiha. The nearby siblings include Uminoya, a retro Japanese take on Western-style fare.; Koshunoya, a bar and sake shop; and Naminoritei, a theater often featuring musical performances.

Take a Naruto Whirlpool Cruise from Awaji Island

Crossing the Onaruto Bridge between Awaji Island and Shikoku, you might peer down and spot the enormous whirlpools forming in the waters below. The Naruto Whirlpools are a famous sight in these waters, so much so that you can chase them on boats leaving from both the Awaji and Tokushima sides of the bridge.

The Uzushio Cruise departs from Awaji Island, carrying excited visitors aboard the Kanrin-maru and Nippon-maru, large steam ships modeled after one that successfully crossed the Pacific Ocean in 1860. The new Kanrin-maru replaced an older vessel in 2021 with modern improvements such as barrier-free access, a digital aquarium, and improvements to reduce its environmental impact.

The 60-minute cruise trolls the area under the Onaruto Bridge in search of the largest whirlpools. Whirlpools are like ocean waves, developing over time and reaching a peak size before dissipating as they move northward toward the Inland Sea. Large ships like the ones operated by Uzushio can skirt the edges of the whirlpools without any danger, but getting that close to one reveals what a powerful natural force they are.

Whirlpools are at their best at extreme low and high tides, which the company tracks to indicate which cruises will have the best opportunities for prime whirlpool viewing. Even if you can't time your cruise perfectly, you're sure to enjoy the ocean breezes, the crystal blue waters, and the sight of the bridge towering above you.

Get Away From Civilization in the Iya Valley

The wild Iya Valley in Tokushima is legendary in a literal sense. The Tale of Heike, a famous story from Japan's history, mentions the Iya Valley as the hiding place of the defeated Heike clan as they retreated from the forces of the Minamoto clan. The rugged terrain was considered so treacherous that the Taira wouldn't bother to pursue the Heike any further.

Even today, the Iya Valley has not shaken its reputation as one of Japan's last wild places. The steep forest-covered mountains and winding rivers are a postcard-perfect reward for those who make the effort to visit. The Kazurabashi vine bridges that cross the Iya River are part of the history of the war between the Heike and Genji clans, beautiful remnants from nearly a millennium ago.

As wild as the Iya Valley is, you'll still find plenty of civilization here. Local villagers are kind and generous, and there are opportunities to learn to make local soba noodles or stay in a traditional farmhouse in a mountainside village. For those seeking luxury, there are hotels with incredible valley views and enticing natural hot springs baths. Today, Iya Valley is still a perfect hideaway from life's troubles as it was for the Heike.

Brave the Wild Rapids on an Oboke Whitewater Rafting Tour

If you really want to get your feet wet experiencing the wild side of Tokushima, Oboke Gorge is the place to do it. Several companies offer whitewater river rafting tours in one of Japan's best locations for whitewater rapids. And due to Setouchi's mild weather, the season for whitewater rafting is long, often stretching into late autumn.

Zip up your wetsuit, strap on your helmet, and receive safety training from the expert guides, and you're ready for an exciting ride down the Yoshino River. But remember, you're not just along for the ride but also part of the rafting team, so expect to be handed an oar and trained on how to use it. Depending on your preferences, the tour length can range from a few hours to an entire day, from fairly calm stretches to rough sections of rapids used for global competitions. Some companies even offer options suitable for families with small children.

But rafting in Setouchi isn't just about reaching your destination. The guides want to ensure you have a fun and safe journey, so there are moments of rest, playing games, and enjoying a meal together along the way. And you don't need to worry about preserving the memories yourself; most companies provide a staff member who travels with you to capture all the great moments with a waterproof camera.

Take a Luxurious Ride on the Shikoku Mannaka Sennen Monogatari Train

At the other end of the spectrum, sightseeing trains exist for people who prefer to enjoy the scenery of Setouchi at a relaxing pace and in comfort. The Shikoku Mannaka Sennen Monogatari, a mouthful that will further be referenced as Sennen Monogatari, runs from Kagawa Prefecture's Tadotsu Station to Tokushima's Oboke Station and back, although your ticket only provides you a one-way journey in either direction (you can take a normal train to return to your starting point.) The two-hour journey is made at a leisurely pace, with a few stops to enjoy the magnificent scenery. Along the way, you can enjoy a special bento meal designed exclusively for the Sennen Monogatari train using fresh local ingredients from Shikoku (order the meal at the time of your reservation.) All seating has a table, and some seats face the huge windows so you can enjoy the scenery while you eat.

From Tadotsu, the scenery gradually changes from urban suburbs to countryside rice fields to the winding Yoshino River as it snakes through the Oboke Gorge. You'll see people from all walks of life living their everyday lives and get a greater sense of what it's like to live in Setouchi. Once you reach the scenic Oboke area, the train will slow down or stop at the most picturesque points to allow the passengers to take photos. At one station, you can even get out and don a Sennen Monogatari train uniform jacket to take a photo memory of your trip.

Of course, there are hundreds of ways to enjoy the beauty and nature of Setouchi and these seven examples are just a few of them. Incidentally, these seven examples can be included together in an itinerary from Hyogo Prefecture to Kagawa or Tokushima, if you'd like to make a complete trip out of them.

Photographs and text by Todd Fong

You can get more information about the route followed in this article by checking out our itineraries in the "Plan Your Trip" section of this website.

https://www.setouchi.travel/en/plan-your-trip/itineraries/ph2-sta-st-022/